Filé

Also known as needle Filé this lace-making technique involves creating lace from a grid of threads over which with the help of a needle, designs of infinite possibilities are created. It is said that the origin of Filé is linked to fishing, and that with the remnants of the nets used by fishermen, their companions began to make the first embroideries.

The Making

The name filé comes from the French “filet,” meaning net and constructing the net is the first stage of a work that requires patience and attention. One person needs to weave the net, which is similar to a fishing net, so that all the loops are identical. Not everyone who makes filé masters this initial process, which is often more time-consuming than the actual lace construction.

After the net is ready, it is stretched on a wooden grid, functioning as a frame, which needs to be the same size as the final piece. It is common to find grids over two meters long leaning against the walls in the homes of artisans. Then begins the meticulous artisanal work, where hands, accompanied by needle and threads, fill each small square of the net with basic stitches or even those invented by each artisan.

A Map of Meanings

Filé: The word filé derives from the French term filet, meaning net. The net, similar to a fishing net, is the basis for lace construction.

Grid: Filé lace is considered needle lace, consisting of filling designs on a net. This net is stretched, and its edges are fastened to a wooden frame, functioning as a hoop, similar to labyrinth lace.

Filé stitches: The star stitch is traditional in the Jaguaribe region, but other commonly used stitches include the chain stitch, “darned” stitch, spider stitch, and jasmine stitch.

Where We Work with Filé